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ALBINE FORUM DE APICULTURA APIARDEAL / TRATAMENTE / Varroa Destructor Moderat de orbanstefan64
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stefan1
Apicultor

Din: Sibiu
Inregistrat: acum 17 ani
Postari: 1334
Am gasit unele date pe care nu le stiam despre acest paduche (de fapt capusha) care afecteaza atat de mult apicultura.
Specia Varroa Destructor are 6 varietati, care afecteaza si apis cerana din toata Asia. Aceste albine insa pot mentine un echilibru al infestarii intre 0 si 700 de paduchi pe colonie. Pot detecta paduchii si in celule capacite si daca infestarea este prea mare descapaceste larva si intrerupe ciclul parazitului. Fata de Varroa Jacobsoni, femela de A.D. este mai mare (are latimea de 1500 microni) si are profilul mai elipsoidal fata de V, Jacobsoni, care este mai rotunda. Masculul este mult mai mic (doar 400 microni) si e aproape sferic, deci neadaptat sa paraziteze albina adulta.
V.D. are 8 picioare in stadiul de adult, dar numai 6 in cel de larva.
  Ciclul de viata
Femela intra in celulele larvelor cam cu 15 ore inainte de capacire. Alte surse vorbeau de 36 de ore. Se aseaza spre fundul celulei sa nu poata fi scoasa de albinele care grijesc larva. Se pare ca paduchii sunt atrasi spre larve de catre esterii de acizi grasi (feromoni), palmitat de metil, emisi de larva, care provoaca capacirea, dar atrag si paduchele. Prefera celulele de trantor unde o femela poate creste pana la 5-7 pui, fata de 3-6 pe o larva de albina.
Primul ou depus este de femela, apoi al doilea de mascul (nefecundat). Urmeaza alte oua din care ies numai femele, depuse cam la 30 de ore interval. Daca in celula este doar un paduche, imperecherea este sigur consnguina, intre puiul mascul si surorile lui. Intai se imperecheaza cu femela iesita din primul ou. Pot fi pana la 9 acuplari. Cand a doua fiica devine matura, masculul o abandoneaza pe prima si se imperecheaza cu a doua, apoi repeta cu urmatoarele surori. Contrar la ce se stia pana de curand, o femela se poate imperechea doar in celula unde s-a nascut. Apoi o parte din tractul genital este distrus si orice imperechere este exclusa. Daca masculul moare mai repede, toate femelele raman infertile pentru totdeauna. Acest lucru apare la 10-46% dintre femele.
Durata de dezvoltare la mascu este 5,5-7 zile
Durata de dezvoltare la femele este 7,5-9 zile (dupa Fantidis)
Femela se hraneste cu hemolimfa larvei si pupei si se admite ca dupa depunerea oualor, moare.
Parazitul poate trai 2-3 luni pe vara si 4-6 luni pe iarna.
Larvele parazitate dau albine care pot fi pana cu pana la 1/3 mai usoare decat un pui normal si pot avea deformari la aripi si corp. Daca o larva este parazitata de mai mult de 8 paraziti, poate muri inainte de eclozionare
Testul de infestare cu foaie impregnata cu grasime: daca dupa 24 de ore se gaseste pe foaie mai mult de 10 paraziti, infestarea se considera ridicata. Se recomanda ca daca infestarea este mai are de 3%, sa se faca tratament.
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
6 metode de tratament.

Sixth in a series on Integrated Pest Management of varroa
Introduction
None of the biotechnical methods that I detailed last month will control varroa alone.  Now it’s time to give you some real meat!  Either of the two methods I’m about to describe, used alone, have been tested and proven to keep varroa at tolerable levels if performed properly.  Used together, they may be a nonchemical one-two punch that will give us the upper hand on the mite.
A note to those commercial beekeepers who are saying, “Jeez, this guy is totally whacked out!  I’m already maxed out for time, and can’t be putting special labor-intensive gizmos into my hives—that’s for hobbyists.  Plus, I can’t take a chance on trusting my mortgage on some untested mite control method.”  In answer, my California son would say, “I feel you, man.”  I’ve got two groups of beekeeping friends—hobbyists who are willing to test new things on their handful of colonies, and commercial guys who run very efficient operations by rotating a series of ag chems.  What I’ve been seeing the past few years, are hobbyist/sideliners maintaining strong colonies without any synthetic miticides.  I was skeptical as hell at first, but they’ve demonstrated the feasibility.  As with any historical change in an industry, the majority says, “It can’t be done, we can’t afford it, it won’t work in reality.”  Then, several years later, they look back and see that it was done, the industry could afford it, and it did work in reality.”

_______________________________________
320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
Tactics: Biotechnical Methods II - The One-Two Punch

















Drone Brood Management and Trap Combs
The first punch that we’re going to hit the mite with is based upon the fact that varroa  reproduces rather poorly in worker brood, but is nearly three times more successful in drone brood, due to its longer postcapping period.  It’s not surprising then, that female mites prefer drone brood by a factor of roughly 10 to 1 (reported figures range from 4:1 - 12:1).  The mites, being tiny and blind, apparently recognize nurse bees by odor (Dillier 2004), and ride around on them until they smell a drone larva of the right age.  Since nurse bees spend much more time feeding drone larvae than worker larvae (Calderone & Kuenen 2003), the mites have ample opportunity to come into contact with drone larvae.
A feral colony of bees builds about 17% drone comb (Seely 2002).  Rapid mite reproduction in this amount of drone brood largely accounts for the decimation of the feral bees by the mite.  The stimulus to build drone combs is good forage (at any time of the year), with a negative feedback from drone brood already existing (Charriere, et al. 2003).  Beekeepers, by using worker-sized foundation, can typically keep drone cells down to about 4% if they regularly cull old combs.  However, colonies will normally produce temporary drone cells in the space between the brood chambers in spring.  Indeed, a quick inspection of the exposed drone brood when you break the brood chambers apart can give you an indication of varroa infestation level.
The beekeeper practicing varroa IPM can minimize varroa reproduction by managing the amount of drone comb in his colonies.  This is especially important since hygienic bees remove only infested worker pupae, not drone pupae.  I’ve already mentioned the importance of culling old combs with drone cells.  Wilkinson and Smith (2000, 2001) modeled the effects of drone brood management.  They state: “At 5% drone brood, as many mites are emerging from 50-60 drone cells as from 1000 worker cells.  This certainly emphasizes the importance of drone brood in mite population growth, and the need for beekeepers to prevent large quantities of drone brood being reared unnecessarily and being left to emerge in the hive.”  They suggest “regular and ruthless ‘culling’ of the old combs and the badly built combs.”   Their model predicted that reducing drone brood from 4% to 3.2% would reduce the mite population growth rate by 25%!  They suggest that drone brood is more important to mite growth at low mite levels, since drone brood capacity for mites reaches its limit before that of worker brood.
Clearly, the beekeeper should cull frames containing drone comb.  However, we can go even a step further, and use drone comb to “trap” mites, and then remove those mites from the colony.  This process is called “drone comb trapping,” and is widely used with great success in other parts of the world.  The concept is simple:  insert a frame of drone comb into a colony at the edge of the brood nest, allow the queen to fill it with drone eggs, wait while the mites infest the cells, then remove the frame before the mites emerge.  Theoretically (Wilkinson & Smith 2002), trapping with one deep drone frame once a month for four months will delay the mite population from reaching a damaging level for 2-4 months; two frames monthly will delay it for a year.
So, you ask, theory is fine, but how effective is drone trapping in real life beeyards?  The short answer is, surprisingly effective!  Dr. Nick Calderone has an excellent guide at  In his study (Calderone 2005), two combs were replaced monthly from June through September.  Mite levels were kept to about 2.5% (ranging from 0-7%)—up to 10 times less than control colonies!  The drone-trapped colonies also made more honey!
In Europe, Charriere, et al. (2003) report that drone trapping has no negative effect on the development of the colony and honey production.  In their tests, which used the equivalent of one drone frame per colony, removed regularly, they found varroa buildup was suppressed enough that only a fall treatment with a natural chemical was required.
Drone trap combs clearly work, but are they practicable?  For the hobbyist, the green plastic drone combs available from several bee catalogs are great.  You put them in, wait exactly four weeks (a few days until the queen can lay, then 24 days for the drone development period) and remove them.  The brood and mites can be killed by removal with a cappings fork, scraping, freezing, heating, or treating with formic acid.  The combs are then replaced for another cycle.  Reusing drone comb may have the added benefit, that it might be more attractive to mites.  In an experiment where old combs were placed side by side with new combs in colonies of Brazilian AHBs, Piccirillo and DeJong (2004) found that cells of old combs were four to five times more attractive to varroa than same-sized cells on new combs.  The authors concluded, “It is clear that these mites strongly preferred old worker brood comb cells to new worker brood cells.”  Drone cells were not tested, but this avenue calls for further study.

One doesn’t need to purchase plastic trap combs.  A medium frame, a deep frame with a section of comb cut out, or even a foundationless frame, will allow bees to produce volunteer drone comb, which can be cut out and discarded (or melted for the wax).
For the commercial beekeeper, it’s obvious that an extra piece of equipment, or the concept of freezing combs is impractical.  Also, reaching down to remove broken-off pieces of drone comb built on the bottoms of frames would be too time consuming.  To address those issues, I designed and tested a dedicated trap comb that can remain in the hive all year.  I knew that the bees would store honey at the top of a comb, so I made a provision for that.  I also wanted a wooden rim all around the drone brood so that I could quickly cut the comb out with a hive tool in the field. 
I also knew that mites only enter drone cells on days 8 and 9.  Therefore, each cell only has a two-day trapping window.  Once a cell is capped, it can no longer trap mites.  Ideally then, to ensure continuous trapping, one would want the queen to lay eggs progressively on the trap frame from the time it is inserted, until 9 days before it is removed.  Therefore, I wanted to force the queen to lay progressively by making the bees build their own drone comb from scratch.
See the photo for the design of the Oliver Trap Frame.  I simply take ordinary deep frames, and an extra top bar.  I cut the ends off the top bar and install it upside down, slipping it onto a piece of plastic worker foundation ripped down to 2˝” (Permadent® fits in the grooves better than deep cell foundation).  There is a little over 2” of foundation remaining exposed at the top of the frame.  This design works great!  We tested 300 of them last year.  Virtually every colony builds them out as illustrated—honey in the top, drone brood below (do not increase the 2” foundation dimension, or some colonies will produce worker brood above.  We may wish to even decrease this dimension—let me know if you try).


The Oliver drone trap frame.

Stephanie loading new trap frames.  We tested 300 last year.

_______________________________________
320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
Rame
Pozele nu se incarca

Modificat de AndreiRN (acum 15 ani)

_______________________________________
320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
Poate merge asa.

_______________________________________
320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
Drone Brood Management and Trap Combs
The first punch that we’re going to hit the mite with is based upon the fact that varroa  reproduces rather poorly in worker brood, but is nearly three times more successful in drone brood, due to its longer postcapping period.  It’s not surprising then, that female mites prefer drone brood by a factor of roughly 10 to 1 (reported figures range from 4:1 - 12:1).  The mites, being tiny and blind, apparently recognize nurse bees by odor (Dillier 2004), and ride around on them until they smell a drone larva of the right age.  Since nurse bees spend much more time feeding drone larvae than worker larvae (Calderone & Kuenen 2003), the mites have ample opportunity to come into contact with drone larvae.
A feral colony of bees builds about 17% drone comb (Seely 2002).  Rapid mite reproduction in this amount of drone brood largely accounts for the decimation of the feral bees by the mite.  The stimulus to build drone combs is good forage (at any time of the year), with a negative feedback from drone brood already existing (Charriere, et al. 2003).  Beekeepers, by using worker-sized foundation, can typically keep drone cells down to about 4% if they regularly cull old combs.  However, colonies will normally produce temporary drone cells in the space between the brood chambers in spring.  Indeed, a quick inspection of the exposed drone brood when you break the brood chambers apart can give you an indication of varroa infestation level.
The beekeeper practicing varroa IPM can minimize varroa reproduction by managing the amount of drone comb in his colonies.  This is especially important since hygienic bees remove only infested worker pupae, not drone pupae.  I’ve already mentioned the importance of culling old combs with drone cells.  Wilkinson and Smith (2000, 2001) modeled the effects of drone brood management.  They state: “At 5% drone brood, as many mites are emerging from 50-60 drone cells as from 1000 worker cells.  This certainly emphasizes the importance of drone brood in mite population growth, and the need for beekeepers to prevent large quantities of drone brood being reared unnecessarily and being left to emerge in the hive.”  They suggest “regular and ruthless ‘culling’ of the old combs and the badly built combs.”   Their model predicted that reducing drone brood from 4% to 3.2% would reduce the mite population growth rate by 25%!  They suggest that drone brood is more important to mite growth at low mite levels, since drone brood capacity for mites reaches its limit before that of worker brood.
Clearly, the beekeeper should cull frames containing drone comb.  However, we can go even a step further, and use drone comb to “trap” mites, and then remove those mites from the colony.  This process is called “drone comb trapping,” and is widely used with great success in other parts of the world.  The concept is simple:  insert a frame of drone comb into a colony at the edge of the brood nest, allow the queen to fill it with drone eggs, wait while the mites infest the cells, then remove the frame before the mites emerge.  Theoretically (Wilkinson & Smith 2002), trapping with one deep drone frame once a month for four months will delay the mite population from reaching a damaging level for 2-4 months; two frames monthly will delay it for a year.
So, you ask, theory is fine, but how effective is drone trapping in real life beeyards?  The short answer is, surprisingly effective!  Dr. Nick Calderone has an excellent guide at  In his study (Calderone 2005), two combs were replaced monthly from June through September.  Mite levels were kept to about 2.5% (ranging from 0-7%)—up to 10 times less than control colonies!  The drone-trapped colonies also made more honey!
In Europe, Charriere, et al. (2003) report that drone trapping has no negative effect on the development of the colony and honey production.  In their tests, which used the equivalent of one drone frame per colony, removed regularly, they found varroa buildup was suppressed enough that only a fall treatment with a natural chemical was required.
Drone trap combs clearly work, but are they practicable?  For the hobbyist, the green plastic drone combs available from several bee catalogs are great.  You put them in, wait exactly four weeks (a few days until the queen can lay, then 24 days for the drone development period) and remove them.  The brood and mites can be killed by removal with a cappings fork, scraping, freezing, heating, or treating with formic acid.  The combs are then replaced for another cycle.  Reusing drone comb may have the added benefit, that it might be more attractive to mites.  In an experiment where old combs were placed side by side with new combs in colonies of Brazilian AHBs, Piccirillo and DeJong (2004) found that cells of old combs were four to five times more attractive to varroa than same-sized cells on new combs.  The authors concluded, “It is clear that these mites strongly preferred old worker brood comb cells to new worker brood cells.”  Drone cells were not tested, but this avenue calls for further study.

One doesn’t need to purchase plastic trap combs.  A medium frame, a deep frame with a section of comb cut out, or even a foundationless frame, will allow bees to produce volunteer drone comb, which can be cut out and discarded (or melted for the wax).
For the commercial beekeeper, it’s obvious that an extra piece of equipment, or the concept of freezing combs is impractical.  Also, reaching down to remove broken-off pieces of drone comb built on the bottoms of frames would be too time consuming.  To address those issues, I designed and tested a dedicated trap comb that can remain in the hive all year.  I knew that the bees would store honey at the top of a comb, so I made a provision for that.  I also wanted a wooden rim all around the drone brood so that I could quickly cut the comb out with a hive tool in the field. 
I also knew that mites only enter drone cells on days 8 and 9.  Therefore, each cell only has a two-day trapping window.  Once a cell is capped, it can no longer trap mites.  Ideally then, to ensure continuous trapping, one would want the queen to lay eggs progressively on the trap frame from the time it is inserted, until 9 days before it is removed.  Therefore, I wanted to force the queen to lay progressively by making the bees build their own drone comb from scratch.
See the photo for the design of the Oliver Trap Frame.  I simply take ordinary deep frames, and an extra top bar.  I cut the ends off the top bar and install it upside down, slipping it onto a piece of plastic worker foundation ripped down to 2˝” (Permadent® fits in the grooves better than deep cell foundation).  There is a little over 2” of foundation remaining exposed at the top of the frame.  This design works great!  We tested 300 of them last year.  Virtually every colony builds them out as illustrated—honey in the top, drone brood below (do not increase the 2” foundation dimension, or some colonies will produce worker brood above.  We may wish to even decrease this dimension—let me know if you try).


The Oliver drone trap frame.

Stephanie loading new trap frames.  We tested 300 last year.
Tactics: Biotechnical Methods II - The One-Two Punch


















Inserting a trap frame in the almonds for an early start.



Drone trap frame at four weeks—honey at top, drone brood below.



Cutting out the drone comb with a hive tool.


Reinserting the frame for the next round of trapping.  The bees will quickly build new comb on the remaining wax.  The whole process takes only 15 seconds!

Trap frames set to edge of brood chamber for comb honey production in bottom half.


Pure beeswax extracted from cut out drone combs.  Less than an ounce per comb, but this wax can be sold at a premium, as it is completely pure and chemical free.
Here are the advantages of this design:
1.       It takes only about 15 seconds per colony to open the lid, remove the comb, cut out the drone comb with your hive tool, replace the frame, and close the lid.  It’s so fast that we don’t even close the door to the truck when we hit a yard!  No freezing or extra work is required.
2.       Since the bees must build comb from scratch, the queen can only lay so many drone eggs per day.  This restraint extends the period that the combs are actually trapping mites.
3.       Since the combs are returned to the same hive, there is no spread of disease from colony to colony.
4.       When you are done with drone trapping for the season, move the comb to the outside of the cluster to produce comb honey for sale or winter stores.
We found that colonies with drone trap frames tended not to produce drone comb between the boxes.  This observation is supported by Seeley (2002), who found that colonies with added drone comb build 7˝ times less volunteer drone cells as those provided with 20% drone comb.  So by adding drone comb, you actually remove the incentive for the bees to produce drone cells elsewhere in the colonies.  In effect, drone trap frames allow you to manage drone production in your operation.  Indeed, in our queen rearing operation, by removing the unwanted drones from poor queens, and by leaving extra drone combs in our drone mother colonies, we produce an excess of genetically superior drones for mating, while suppressing the population of genetically undesirable drones.  Since we breed for mite tolerance, our drone mothers have fewer mites to start with, and the extra drone comb is less of an issue for mite buildup.
You may ask whether it is worthwhile to extract the wax from the cut out drone comb.  We boiled 200 cutouts, and produced 10 lbs of wax.  We found that it wasn’t worth our labor, so we now just feed some drone brood to the chickens, and compost the rest for the garden.  If you had a better means of extracting the wax, you might be able to reclaim it.  Or, you might find a market for it as livestock or pet feed, or sell it in Asian markets as a delicacy!
As I mentioned in the previous installment, using these combs in conjunction with queen restriction can nearly completely eliminate varroa from a colony (Calis, et al. 1999).
Zachary Huang is developing the Mitezapper—a drone trap frame with heating wires in the foundation.  Once a month, the beekeeper would hook up wires to a car battery for a few minutes to kill the mites with heat.  The colony would not even need to be opened! 
Hoopingarner (2001) does raise one potential objection to trapping with drone brood:  “it exerts constant selection against the mites that prefer drone brood. This is not in the long-term best interest of a varroa reduction program” because, it de facto selects for mites that prefer worker brood.  However, upon further reflection, Charriere (2003) states, “The often expressed fear that removal of drone brood will select for a population of varroa that prefer worker brood does not seem to be justified.  We should remember that the removal of drone brood occurs only during a short period, and for the rest of the year the mites are obliged to breed in worker cells.”  Indeed, if we breed for varroa sensitive hygiene, the mites don’t stand a chance in worker brood.
Bottom line:
Drone brood trapping works great, and can be done very quickly and cheaply.  It doesn’t decrease honey production, and keeps the bees from building volunteer drone cells elsewhere.  It may keep mites below economic injury levels alone, but will likely require supplemental treatments.
Points to remember:
1.       A full comb removed monthly will generally keep mite levels below threshold.
2.       Two full combs would be even better.
3.        Two combs, alternately removed every other week, would likely be best.
4.       Do not forget to remove the combs at 4 weeks, or you’ll be breeding mites!

_______________________________________
320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
da, dar fara poze.

Powdered sugar dusting
The second punch in our combination came from Finland.  A few years ago, I came across an article in ABJ by the Finnish researcher, Dr. Kamran Fakhimzadeh (2000).  He had been looking at various materials for dusting bees, with the intent to cause increased drop of the phoretic varroa mites.  He hit upon powdered sugar as being both non contaminating to honey, and just the right size to clog up the mites’ feet.  Pettis and Shimanuki (1999) had already proposed using dust in conjunction with a screened bottom board for varroa control. I mentioned the articles at our local bee meeting.  One hobbyist member, Janet Brisson, was taken by the possibility of using sugar dusting and screened bottoms for mite control, and became a proselytizer for the method.  I found the concept to be of interest, but the time-consuming method by which she and others went about applying the dust seemed totally unpractical to me.
Last year, at the club meeting, I asked for a show of hands as to what methods members were employing to control the mite.  I was surprised that the majority were using sugar dusting!  Finally, after seeing the method apparently being successful for two years, and reading Jerry Hayes (2004) promote the “Dowda” method in The Classroom, I felt that I needed to give sugar dusting a second look!
I did a few tests.  I saw that sugar dusting sure did cause a lot of mites to drop, but it didn’t appear to affect subsequent stickyboard counts much, even after two weeks of repeated dustings!  Something didn’t make sense.  How could this method work if it didn’t affect sticky counts?
Then I started researching mite population dynamics, and realized the error of my thinking.  Mites are only phoretic for about 5 days during broodrearing (a range of 4-15 days, dependent upon a number of factors (Harbo and Harris (2004)).  Therefore, one would expect about a 20% turnover of phoretic mites every day, as older ones reenter brood cells, and new ones emerge.  Knowing this, even if you had some new wonder chemical that killed 100% of the phoretic mites one day, you’d still have a 20% return of the phoretic mite population the next day, 40% by the second day, and back to the pretreatment level within a week!  If you were to take a stickyboard count a week after the 100% kill, you would see zero effect from the dusting!
What I realized was that the problem wasn’t that sugar dusting didn’t work, but that I was not measuring its efficacy the right way!  So I looked to the literature for measured levels of efficacy of an in-hive sugar dusting.  To my surprise, there weren’t any.  Fakhimzadeh had only measured the increase in daily mite drop and Aliano and Ellis (2005) had recorded a 75% mite drop only from caged bees.  I contacted every researcher and beekeeper I could for an in-hive efficacy figure, but no one had one.  So I collected the hard data myself, by dusting three test colonies (one, two, and three story), measuring the mite drop for the first hour, and then sacrificing all the bees in the colonies and washing the mites from them.  I will write up a full version of the results when we complete testing, but in short, about a third of all phoretic mites in a colony drop in the first hour after dusting! 
I now had a figure that I could use for crude modeling of the effect of repeated sugar dusting on mite population growth.  I wanted to see if a mathematical model based upon the mite kill rate I measured would reflect the reports from the field.  Since Fakhimzadeh and other beekeepers report that mites continue to fall at an increased rate for over 24 hours, I made the assumption that a good sugar dusting would kill 50% of the phoretic mites—a round number based upon a 33% initial kill, plus an arbitrarily assumed half again residual kill.  These are working numbers subject to revision when we obtain more data.
Let me be clear at this point.  I’m not about to recommend any varroa control treatment based upon mathematical modeling.  What I’m curious to see, is whether the amount of mite drop caused by powdered sugar dusting could be mathematically expected to effect the mite control claimed by its proponents.  So I called around to those who have been using the technique for over two years, and asked them for their records and observations.   Some dusting practitioners had used ancillary treatments, such as drone brood trapping, or essential oils, so I allowed for those treatments.  Their records indicated that:  Initial dusting once a week for several weeks knocks mite levels way back, dusting twice a month keeps the mites at low levels, and dusting monthly (or even less frequently) keeps the mites at tolerable levels. 
So, let’s see if crude mathematical modeling supports the field experience.  I set up a simple mite population growth curve based upon a starting population of 100 mites, and a reasonable 2.4% daily mite growth rate (Martin 1998).  Then I killed 1/6 of the total mite population at each dusting, based upon killing half of the one-third of the total mite population that is phoretic at any given time during the treatment period of March 1 through September 1.  This model is very crude, and doesn’t account for amount of drone brood, multiple infestation, or other variables, and should only be used to give us a rough idea of the feasibility of the technique.  I must admit, the results surprised me in how closely they reflected field experience! Clearly, powdered sugar dusting as a mite control measure has proven field efficacy, plus a mathematical model to support it.
 
The estimated effect of powdered sugar dusting over a screened bottom on mite population growth, based upon a starting population of 100 mites, a daily growth rate of 2.4%, and an estimated kill of 50% of the phoretic mites per dusting treatment.   Note that weekly dustings would result in a decrease in the mite population.  These curves are based upon very crude math, and are only for general illustrative purposes, although they confirm field experience.
Note that the control curve reaches a devastating mite level by September 1st.  Monthly dusting in this model keeps the mite population below a moderate threshold of 3000 mites, and bimonthly dusting keeps ‘em below 1000—a load that is considered acceptable by most all authorities.  The weekly dustings actually decreased the mite population over the treatment period.
Not only that, but the illustrated curves likely underestimate the effect of sugar dusting, since even though it effectively kills only a sixth of the mites, the mites killed are those that would have been most likely to survive to reproduce.  That is, once a mite is in the phoretic stage, its natural mortality rate is very low—about 0.6% (6 out of 1000) per day, as compared to the 20 –30% mortality of those first emerging from cells (Martin 1998).  Although about two-thirds of the mites are under cappings and thereby protected from dusting treatments, that proportion is tempered by the fact that a quarter of them will not survive through emergence.  This makes the mortality of the phoretic mites more important than their proportion might indicate.  Recall from my discussion of mite population dynamics that that a female mite needs to average 2-3 reproductive cycles for varroa populations to grow at the pace that we see in the field.  If sugar dusting knocks a mite down early in her life, she will be unable to complete multiple cycles. The surprising effectiveness of sugar dusting may due to its impact on the average number of reproductive cycles that a mite can complete.

The Oliver 15-second sugar dust method
Before I even considered advocating sugar dusting, I knew that no one with more than a hive or two would be out there using the suggested application methods of flour sifters or squeeze bottle puffing.  It was far too time consuming!  So I bought 50 lbs of powdered sugar from my local baker (it’s cheaper that way) and set out to see if I could come up with an easier, quicker method.  I did.
The method:
Materials:
1.       A 5 gal bucket with a screw top lid to hold the fine confectioner’s sugar.  Hobbyists can use any airtight kitchen container.  Large operators may wish to use a rectangular plastic waste basket on a caddy that also holds the screen.
2.       A bee brush with a 1-cup measuring cup taped to the handle (large operators will need a cup with a strong handle).  Fluffing the sugar once by tipping the bucket will make it much easier to scoop.
3.       A wood-rimmed moving screen of (strong) steel window screen.  The rim should be ľ” on the top side (to contain the sugar), and at least 3/8” on the other (to space the screen above the top bars).  I used 1/8” hardware cloth at first—it’s faster to sift, but doesn’t do as good a job at breaking up the lumps of sugar.
4.       The colony should be on a screened bottom (I’m assuming this, but have not tested to see if it’s truly necessary). 
Technique:
1.       Smoke the colony.
2.       Remove the cover and smoke the bees down off the top bars.
3.       Put the moving screen over the frames, and then use the cup to spread powdered sugar on the screen over the cluster area.  Use 1 cup (approx. 100g) for 1-story colonies, or 2 cups for double deeps.
4.       Flip the brush around, and use it to sift the sugar through the screen.
5.       Lift the screen, and continue to use the brush crosswise across the top bars to sift the sugar into the beeways.
6.       Replace the cover.  We do this entire operation handily in less than 15 seconds!
7.       Mites will begin to fall within seconds.  If you’ve put a dry stickyboard under the screened floor, you can get a good indication of your mite level in an hour.

 
Tools for the Oliver 15-second sugar dust.  Note the cup duct taped to the brush handle as a time-saving measure.  Window screen in wooden frame.



Use one cup of sugar for singles, two cups for doubles.

Brush the sugar through the screen over the cluster of bees.




Lift the screen, and brush the sugar crossways across the frames so that it all falls on the bees.  The whole process takes less than 15 seconds!

Kill two birds with one stone by combining dusting with other hive procedures.  Feeding pollen supplement here.




This is a frame from the bottom brood chamber of a double, two minutes after dusting the top bars of the upper box with two cups of sugar.  Note the sugar that has fallen through onto the top bars, and onto the bees and combs.



Close up of the bees from the frame in the previous photo.  Note the sugar dust on their bodies, even though we dusted the box above.
Tips:
1.       In this case, more is better.  Use enough sugar so that some falls through the screened floor.
2.       Test your technique by pulling frames of bees from the bottom box in about two minutes.  They should be obviously dusted white.
3.       Keep yer powder dry!  Damp powdered sugar clumps too much to dust the bees efficiently.  Store it in a warm, dry place.
Discussion
OK, sugar dusting has a proven track record, a mathematical explanation for its efficacy based upon mite population dynamics, and can be done quickly and cheaply (less than 25˘ to treat a 2-story colony).  Why does it work, and will it harm my bees?  Luckily, this question has largely been answered, both from practical experience, and scientific research.  Sugar dust adheres to a mite’s ambulacra (foot pads) (Fakhimzadeh 2000), apparently causing the mite to lose its grip on the bee.  Dusting may, in addition, stimulate bee grooming behavior (Macedo & Ellis 2002).  It is a mechanical method of mite control, rather than chemical.  It does not directly kill the mites—they fall out of the hive and can’t return.  Fakhimzadeh (2001) found that direct heavy dusting resulted in greater mite drop than light blow dusting, and that no sugar particles were found in the bees’ trachea (breathing tubes).  Heavy dusting may cause significant egg removal, and loss of a fraction of the older larvae (Aliano & Ellis 2005).  This loss would be of little consequence, since a portion a day’s quota of eggs represents a relatively minor investment to the colony.  Fakhimzadeh (2001) also found that dusting at frequent intervals did not appear to affect brood production, colony strength, queen survivorship, or honey production.  Note that he dusted with less sugar 15g (about 1/8 cup per colony) than is currently recommended.  His control of mite buildup was also less.  I have not heard reports of problems due to dusting with 2 cups per colony.
There are drawbacks to sugar dusting.  First, its application is dependent upon fair weather.  It may also draw ants.  Janet Brisson reported that sugar dusting during a nectar dearth may initiate robbing.  I suggested that she try the old trick of removing all the hive covers in the apiary when you begin.  That stopped the robbing problem.  The question has arisen as to the best time of day to dust.  I don’t know.  Most mites hang out mostly on younger bees around the brood nest, so it may not be important to dust all the foragers.  We still have lots to learn!
Some practitioners suggest banging the side of the hive after application to dislodge the sugar and stir up the bees.  This makes sense.  I’ve had an additional brainstorm:  I’ve figured out how to effectively infuse powdered sugar with menthol, in the hope that it will agitate the mites, and cause more to drop.  But first I need to test it to see if it kills brood.  I’ll keep you posted on the results.
The beauty of sugar dusting is that you can do it as often as needed to control the mite.  If your bees pick up extra mites from collapsing colonies, hit ‘em with sugar.  Use the “Shoot first and ask questions later” method of dusting and taking a mite sample at the same time with a stickyboard (it doesn’t need to be sticky if you use enough sugar so that it falls on the board).  If you see a lot of mites, dust weekly; if there are few mites, wait a month.  When your colonies are broodless, a few sugar dustings would be expected to knock the snot out of the mite population, since they are all exposed to sugar at that time.  I’ll try to get some numbers next winter.
I have been corresponding with the California Department of Pesticide Regulation.  I explained how sugar dusting (and grease patties for tracheal mite control) were used, and asked them for an opinion as to whether they would be considered as pesticides, and therefore subject to regulation.  Their response was:
“Randy, the two products of discussion are food products that are
normally consumed and have labels that do not make any pest control
claims. The way you are using them is to either create a barrier to the
mites or mask the smell of the bees so the mites won't be attracted to
them.  These actions are usually not thought to be methods of pest
control that need to be registered. These are like home-remedies.  As
long as the food product labels do not make any pest control claims
like kills, controls, repels, etc. mites in bees, these are not
pesticide uses and do not have to be registered.”
Bottom Line
Surprise—powdered sugar dusting really kills drops a significant proportion of the phoretic mites, and that exerts a strong effect on mite reproduction.  It’s safe, doesn’t hurt the colony, can be used even when they’re storing honey, works any time of year that the bees are not in tight cluster, is cheap, and only takes 15 seconds!  If you use an insert, it will even tell you how soon you should dust again.

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
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The one-two punch—30 seconds to knock out varroa!
Drone brood trapping and sugar dusting—what a combination!  The first punch gets mites in the brood; the second knocks them off the bees.  Do them both at the same time every four weeks during spring, and sugar dusting alone at other times as needed.  It’ll take you 30 seconds at colony, and cost you less than a quarter.  Doesn’t get much better than that!
Either or both of these methods can be used during a honeyflow!  I have not yet tried dusting down through the honey supers, but I imagine that the technique would be more effective if you lifted the supers and dusted the top of the brood chamber.  Better yet, get the mite level down before supering, so you can wait until you pull the honey (but don’t wait too long).
Now let me be clear.  I have limited experience with sugar dusting myself.  I’ve dusted about 100 lbs of sugar so far, and have the technique down, but have not yet used it in my operation to any extent.   We dusted 80 colonies in an almond orchard this spring, but there was not enough mite drop to make it worthwhile to dust the rest at that time.  But I’ll sure be dusting later this season!  I’ll let you know how it goes.
My new website
I’ve had requests from all over the world for reprints of my articles.  I thought of combining them into a booklet, but realized that it would be out of date as soon as it was printed.  So I decided to start a website for the express purpose of summarizing the state of knowledge on varroa management, general beekeeping, and California almond pollination, based upon practical application of scientific research, commercial experience, and tested methods from all countries.  My goals are to keep it a concise source of information for the busy beekeeper, and to update it with feedback from readers, researchers, and field evaluation.  It should be up by the time you read this!  Log on to randyoliver.com.
Acknowledgements
I wish to thank Janet Brisson, Zion Guinn, Joe Carson, Jerry Hayes, Marion Ellis, and the students from Nevada County Science Center, who counted mites and bees.  I especially appreciate the generous donation from the 2007 Honeybee, Beekeeping, and Environment Symposium sponsored by Summerfield Waldorf School and Beekind, Sebastopol, Calif. in support of my ongoing research.
Coming next month:  Chemical weaponry—the IPM fallback position
Feedback
Tips: Put a 3/4" rim on both sides of the screen frame.  By having more clearance above the top bars, dusting goes faster.  Always check to make sure some excess sugar falls through the screened bottom--this tells you that you have used enough sugar.  Avoid dusting on windy days!
Q:  Can I use ordinary powdered sugar from the store, even though it contains starch?
A:  I have not heard of any negative effects upon the bees due to the small amount of starch, even from beekeepers who have been dusting for years. This question has been debated ad nauseum on the Web.  Starch naturally occurs in some pollens, and bees seem to be able to process it.  You're only talking about some 200 micrograms of starch per bee per dusting.  I will be performing experiments on confined bees to see if the small amount of starch is a problem.  As of this time, go ahead and use normal powdered sugar from the grocery.  If you purchase it from a bakery in bulk, ask for the finest grind.
Q:  How often should I trap and dust?
A:  Start in spring as soon as the bees begin foraging.  You want to minimize colony disruption.  Every time you pull the drone trap frame, you stand a chance of injuring the queen.  Try trapping and then dusting on the same visit every four weeks (28 days).  Take a one-hour mite count (see below) to see if you can wait another month.  I'm working on finding if a 10-minute mite count will work.

Q:  What is the “threshold” number of mites after a dusting, that would indicate that dusting should be repeated in a week?
A:  I do not have a number at this time, but will soon be running experiments to find out.  Let’s do a little theoretical math:  Let’s say that you don’t want the mite level to get above a 2% infestation.  Therefore, you’d be concerned if the level approached 1%, since it could double in a month. Please refer to my Strategy article.  You can accept a higher infestation late in the season than you would accept early.  In spring, you might want to keep the level below 1/2%.

If a colony has a 1% infestation of the adult bees, and there are 30,000 bees (moderately strong), then there would be 300 phoretic mites.  If dusting knocked off one third of those in the first hour, you would get a count of 100 mites.  Therefore, until I get further data, I’d dust in two weeks if you got a 1-hour post-dusting mite drop of 100 mites from a moderately strong colony. Early in the season, try to keep the count below 50 mites dropping in the first hour.


Q: I am a new beekeeper this year so please keep this in mind.  The question that I have is:  what makes the bees decide to fill the bottom of your frame design with only drone comb rather than establishing worker comb?  I love the simplicity of your design and plan to incorporate it into my hives.
A:  This is normal bee behavior during a spring nectar flow for any space at the periphery of the broodnest.  It is also normal to store honey at the top.

Q:  Should I use the drone trap frame in a starting colony that is still in the first brood box?
A:  Updated 7/25/07 Trap frames appear to work best in the upper brood chamber, generally position 3 or 4, in the springtime.

Q:  Do I need to break down the brood chamber to dust?
A:  Based upon the photos in the article, I’d guess no, but have not confirmed this experimentally.

Q:  Can I dust with honey supers on?
A:  The method does not contaminate your honey, so the answer is yes.  However, the supers may need to be lifted, in  order to effectively dust the top of the brood chamber.  I've had some success in dusting 3-deep colonies by using 4 cups of sugar, but the bees in the bottom brood chamber do not get covered as evenly as when you dust a double deep with 2 cups.

Q: I was wondering if you have a plan for your  drone trapping frame you would be willing to share.
A:  Yes.  Cut the ends off a grooved top bar.  Saw a strip of plastic worker foundation to 2-1/2", turn the top bar upside down between the end bars to pinch the foundation in place, and nail in place.  The amount of  exposed foundation  should be 1-7/8" or less (or some colonies will raise a line of worker brood at the bottom).  Some plastic foundations have raised cells, and the cut edge won’t fit into the existing frame grooves (Permadent works well).  If necessary, you may have to use a table saw to cut the grooves wider before you assemble the frames.

Q:   What do you think of adding a drone frame 2 weeks apart, one in the top hive body and one in the bottom hive body? Would this set them too far back in worker brood or could it possibly maximize mite harvests?  One frame in each box may also target mites in each box?...
A:  I'd just do the top box with my design.  Less colony disruption, With my frame design, bees would put worker brood in th top section of the frame if the frame were placed in lower box.  It might expose more mites to the frame, but might not be worth it due to additional colony disruption, chance of killing queen, and time to split the boxes.

Q:  I think 4 weeks is a little too long to keep drone brood in.  I work in a 2 to 3 week rotation, but with the rain and traveling, it was almost 4 weeks before I was able to get into the hives and the drones had started to hatch out. 
A:  The ideal timing would be as soon as all the drone brood is capped.  That could theoretically happen as early as day 13, if the bees built comb in two days, then the queen layed eggs in every cell in one day.  However, that is unlikely to happen.  Remember, each individual drone cell only traps mites on days 8 and 9—none before, none after.  So removal at 2 weeks might render the mite trapping largely ineffective. 

Giving an allowance of three days for the bees to build comb before the queen starts laying, the trap frame would begin trapping mites on day 11.  Removing the comb at week 3 would allow 10 days of trapping, but you’d still have a safety margin of 6 days left before the first drones could emerge (and release mites) on day 27. 

Waiting until day 28 (4 weeks) you might have a few drones hatching, but you would have far more mites still trapped in the frame.  So my recommendation would be: if you have the time to check the frames at 3 weeks, and most of  the drone brood is capped, replace it.  This timing would give the greatest efficacy, but only if there is little open drone brood remaining on the comb.  Otherwise, just wait for 4 weeks, for a no-brainer timing.

Even simpler--cut out drone brood any time after it's capped, but not before.  Be sure to cut it out before it emerges!

Q:  Can I use an empty frame in the nest as a drone trap, or is having some comb overhead for honey important?
A:  Sure, the only reason for split frame is to make it easier to save the bees' honey while cutting out the drone comb.

Q:   Or can an I use a frame with drone size wax foundation without the wires for each month's treatment?
A:  Sure.

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
Batrinul
Apicultor

Din: Sft. Gheorghe
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 869
Trântor şi se pune la cale de Management capcana piepteni
Prima lovitură de pumn ca vom lovit cu bănuţ se bazează pe faptul că varroa reproduce destul de slab în lucrător se pune la cale, dar este de aproape trei ori mai mult succes în zbârnâit neam, datorita mai postcapping perioadă. Nu e de mirare atunci, ca femeie acarieni prefera bâzâit se pune la cale de către un factor de aproximativ 10 la 1 (cifrele raportate variază de la 4:1 - 12:1). De acarieni, fiind mici şi orb, aparent recunoaşte asistenta miros de albine (Dillier 2004), şi de plimbare în jurul lor, până când au un miros zbârnâit larva de dreptul de vârstă. Din asistenta albine cheltuiesc mult mai mult timp de hrănire zbârnâit larve decât lucrătorul larve (Calderone & Kuenen 2003), de acarieni ample au posibilitatea de a intra în contact cu zbârnâit larve.
O colonie de albine sălbatici construieşte aproximativ 17% zbârnâit pieptene (Seely, 2002). Rapid căpuşă reproducere din această sumă a bâzâit în mare măsură, se pune la cale pentru conturile de decimare a sălbatici albine de căpuşă. Stimulentul de a construi zbârnâit piepteni furajeră este bun (în orice moment al anului), cu un feedback negativ de la zbârnâit gândi deja existente (Charriere, et al. 2003). Apicultori, prin utilizarea lucrător de dimensiuni fundaţie, de obicei, se poate păstra zbârnâit celule în jos pentru a aproximativ 4% în cazul în care acestea regulat spicui piepteni vechi. Cu toate acestea, coloniile va produce în mod normal, temporar zbârnâit celule în spaţiul dintre camerele se pune la cale, în primăvara anului. Într-adevăr, o scurtă inspecţie a expuşi atunci când se pune la cale zbârnâi sparge se pune la cale afară camere poate da o indicaţie de infestare varroa nivel.
Apicultorului practicarea varroa IPM poate minimiza varroa reproducere de gestionare suma de bâzâit în pieptene sale colonii. Acest lucru este deosebit de importantă, deoarece de igienă albine elimina numai infestate lucrător pupae, nu tărăgăna pupae. Am menţionat deja importanţa sacrificarea vechi piepteni cu zbârnâit celule. Wilkinson şi Smith (2000, 2001) modelat efectele zbârnâit neam de management. Ei de stat: "La 5% bâzâit se pune la cale, ca de multe acarieni sunt în curs de apariţie 50-60 zbârnâit celule ca lucrător de la 1000 celule. Acest lucru cu siguranţă accentueaza importanta zbârnâi neam în sumă modestă de creştere a populaţiei, precum şi de nevoia de apicultori pentru a preveni mari cantităţi de trântor neam fiind crescute în mod inutil şi să fie lăsat să apară în stup. "Ei sugerează" regulate şi crud "sacrificarea" a vechiului piepteni şi rău construit piepteni. "prezis că modelul lor de reducere a tăia frunză la câini se pune la cale de la 4% la 3,2% ar reduce căpuşă rata de creştere a populaţiei cu 25%! Ei sugerează că se pune la cale zbârnâi este mai important pentru creşterea economică la gâză mică gâză nivelurile, de vreme ce se pune la cale zbârnâi capacitatea de acarieni îşi atinge limita inainte de lucrător care se pune la cale.
În mod evident, ar trebui să apicultorului spicui cadre conţin zbârnâit pieptene. Cu toate acestea, putem merge chiar un pas mai departe, şi de a folosi pentru a tăia frunză la câini pieptene "capcana" acarieni, apoi eliminaţi aceste acarieni de la colonie. Acest proces este numit "zbârnâit pieptene capcană", şi este utilizat pe scară largă, cu mare succes în alte părţi ale lumii. Conceptul este simplu: a insera un cadru de trântor fagure într-o colonie de la marginea de a se pune la cale un cuib, permite ca regina să-l completaţi cu zbârnâit ouă, în timp ce aşteptaţi de acarieni infesta celulelor, apoi eliminaţi cadrul înainte de acarieni emerge. Teoretic (Wilkinson & Smith 2002), cu o adâncime de captare zbârnâit cadru o dată pe lună, timp de patru luni va întârzia căpuşă a populaţiei de la atingerea unui nivel de dăunătoare pentru 2-4 luni; două cadre lunar va întârzia-o pentru un an.
Deci, te întreb, teoria este bine, dar cât de eficace este zbârnâit capcană în viaţa reală beeyards? Răspunsul scurt este, în mod surprinzător eficient! Dr. Nick Calderone are un excelent ghid la ... hange.pdf. În studiul său (Calderone 2005), două au fost înlocuite piepteni lunare din iunie, prin septembrie. Căpuşă au fost menţinute la niveluri de aproximativ 2,5% (de la 0-7%), până la 10 ori mai puţin decât colonii de control! Mormăi-a prins în capcană de asemenea, a făcut mai multe colonii de miere!
În Europa, Charriere, et al. (2003) un raport care nu are nici un bâzâit capcană efect negativ asupra dezvoltării în continuare a colonie şi producţia de miere. În cadrul testelor, care a folosit echivalentul a zbârnâit cadru pe o colonie, eliminate regulat, au găsit varroa buildup suprimată a fost suficient că doar o scădere de tratament cu un produs chimic natural a fost necesar.
Mormăi capcana piepteni de lucru în mod clar, dar sunt ele este posibil? Pentru colecţionar, de culoare verde din material plastic piepteni zbârnâit disponibile de la mai multe cataloage de albine sunt minunate. Le-aţi pus în, stai exact patru săptămâni (cu câteva zile, până când regina poate stabili, apoi 24 de zile pentru a tăia frunză la câini perioada de dezvoltare) şi eliminaţi-le. A se pune la cale şi acarieni poate fi ucis de eliminare, cu o furculiţă cappings, târşâitură, îngheţare, de încălzire, sau tratarea cu acid formic. De piepteni sunt apoi înlocuit de un alt ciclu. Reutilizarea zbârnâit pieptene mai au avantajul suplimentar, care ar putea fi mai atractive pentru acarieni. Într-un experiment de piepteni vechi în cazul în care au fost plasate alaturi de noi piepteni în coloniile de brazilian AHBs, Piccirillo şi DeJong (2004) a constatat că celulele de piepteni vechi au fost patru-cinci ori mai atractive pentru varroa decât aceeaşi mărime, pe celule noi piepteni. Autorii au concluzionat: "Este clar că aceste acarieni puternic preferat vechi lucrător pieptene celule pentru a se pune la cale noi celule lucrător se pune la cale." Zbârnâit celule nu au fost testate, dar acest lucru avenue apeluri pentru studiu.

Unul nu are nevoie de cumpărare de plastic capcana piepteni. Un cadru mediu, o adanca cadru cu o secţiune de pieptene taia, sau chiar un cadru foundationless, va permite albine pentru a produce voluntar zbârnâit pieptene, care poate fi tăiat şi aruncat (sau topit pentru ceara).
Pentru comerciale apicultor, este evident că o piesă de echipament, sau conceptul de îngheţare piepteni este imposibil. De asemenea, ajungând în jos pentru a elimina rupt-off bucăţi de trântor pieptene construit pe fundul de cadre ar fi prea mult timp. Pentru a aborda aceste probleme, am proiectat şi testat o capcana dedicat pieptene care pot rămâne în stup tot anul. Am ştiut că va stoca miere de albine din partea de sus a un pieptene, aşa că am făcut o dispoziţie pentru asta. Am vrut de asemenea, din lemn RIM tot bâzâit se pune la cale, astfel încât am putut de repede tăiat pieptene cu un stup instrument în domeniu.
De asemenea, am ştiut că acarieni numai zbârnâit celule intră în zilele 8 şi 9. Prin urmare, fiecare are o celula doar de două zile la capcană fereastra. După ce-o celulă este limitat, el nu mai poate capcana acarieni. În mod ideal, atunci, pentru a se asigura continuu capcană, o regina ar vrea să se stabilească ouă progresiv pe laţ cadru de la momentul în care este inserată, până la 9 zile înainte de a fi eliminat. De aceea, am vrut să vigoare regina a stabili progresiv de luare de albine construi propria zbârnâit pieptene de la zero.
A se vedea fotografia pentru proiectarea de Oliver capcana Frame. Eu pur şi simplu să ia ordinare adâncime de cadre, precum şi o suplimentare de top bar. Am tăiat capetele de pe bara de sus şi instalaţi-l cu susul în jos, uitat pe o bucată de plastic lucrător fundatie furat în jos pentru a 2 ˝ "(Permadent ® în grooves se potriveşte mai bine decât adânc de celule Foundation). Nu este un pic mai mult de 2 "de fundaţie rămas expus în partea de sus a cadrului. Acest design works mare! Noi am testat 300 dintre ei, anul trecut. Teoretic, fiecare colonie construieşte-i, după cum este ilustrat-miere în partea de sus, se pune la cale zbârnâi de mai jos (nu creşte 2 "fundaţie dimensiune, sau a unor colonii va produce lucrător se pune la cale de mai sus. S-ar putea chiar şi dorinţa de a micşora această dimensiune-lasă-mă să ştiu dacă încercaţi).


De Oliver zbârnâit capcana cadru.

Stephanie încărcare nouă cursă de cadre. Noi am testat 300 de anul trecut

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pus acum 15 ani
   
Batrinul
Apicultor

Din: Sft. Gheorghe
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 869
Eu sint plecat de mai mult timp din TARA si am uitat limba romina si uite asa vam tradus dupa stiinta ...     Am inteles ca in lupta contra varoa nu avem nevoie decit de un PIEPTENE

Modificat de Batrinul (acum 15 ani)

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pus acum 15 ani
   
stefan1
Apicultor

Din: Sibiu
Inregistrat: acum 17 ani
Postari: 1334
Ar fi bine daca cineva care stie bine engleza sa ne traduca. Am inteles, totusi din asta cateva lucruri.
La stupii salbatici cam 17% din celule sunt de trantori.
Paduchii sunt mult mai atrasi de fagurii vechi, chiar de 4-5 ori mai mult decat de fagurii noi. Deci ar fi mai bine reutilizat fagurul din care am scos puietul de trantori.
Ar trebui conceputa o metoda de a avea permanent puiet de trantori la capacire, tinand cont ca doar doua zile inainte de capacire, larvele atrag paduchii.
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
Hmmm, e cam mult de tradus dar poate intreaba cineva sau fac un rezumat.
Dar, dupa sfatul lui Stefan1 la un stup de acasa am gasit varroa si poze i-am facut.

varroa destructor hmmm, cam mult tradus dar poate intreaba cineva sau fac dupa sfatul lui stefan1

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
Acum o sa inlocuiesc fundurile la toti stupi cu funduri cu plasa si cand termin asta le voi pudra cu zahar.

varroa destructor acum inlocuiesc fundurile toti stupi funduri plasa cand termin asta voi pudra

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
stefan1
Apicultor

Din: Sibiu
Inregistrat: acum 17 ani
Postari: 1334
Da, aia sunt paduchii. Sper ca nu sunt pe fiecare larva, ca asta ar fi o infestare foarte mare. Fa macar la un stup tratament de control cu o substanta recunoscuta ca eficienta si observa rezultatul.
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
Testul a fost facut pe un stup de acasa si in weekendul acesta va primi un fund cu plasa. La acelasi stup am facut poze multe la albina si le-am analizat marite si nu am vazut nicio varroa.
Este o colonie prospera pe 2 corpuri si ceva cam agresiva de la un timp.

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417

Batrinul a scris:


Eu sint plecat de mai mult timp din TARA si am uitat limba romina si uite asa vam tradus dupa stiinta ...     Am inteles ca in lupta contra varoa nu avem nevoie decit de un PIEPTENE

   
Da, dar nu ai vrut sa spui ca la fagure i se zice "honeycomb" si de acolo ai tradus tu doar "comb" adica PIEPTENE.

Oricum un studiu ff interesant.
Varroa se dezvolta bine in celulele mari.
In ultimi 20 de ani sa trecut la baza de ceara cu celule mari pt a scoate albine mai mari. Asta a usurat inmultirea la varroa.
Michael Bush, a testat ideea ca daca albine isi face singura fagurele la ce marime isi doreste varroa nu prospera. Cand pune faguri la cladit pune doar 3 cm sus pe rama pt inceput si rama o pune intre 2 rame deja cladite pt a primi o directie cat mai perfecta.
Si, da, varroa prefera fagure vechi si schimbarea lui la 3 ani reduce sansa de infestare.

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
Ieri am pus funduri cu plasa la doua stupuri. Amandoua sunt pe doua corpuri de 1/1 si erau batute in cuie fundurile vechi dar cu ceva efort le-am scos cu albina in ele.
Acum amandoua au funduri cu plasa si azi dimineata am observat boabe de polen cazute sub stup si am pus o cutie de carton.
In stup este o margine solida de 3cm unde albina sa mearga fara sa calce pe plasa. O sa invete curand sa evite plasa? Sper.

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
novaboy
Apicultor

Din: jud alba
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 14
buna ziua,interesant articolul despre varroua

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La o adica....cu rabdarea poti sa treci si marea...
pus acum 15 ani
   
PricopArthur
Apicultor

Din: Medgidia - jud. Constanta
Inregistrat: acum 17 ani
Postari: 1701

AndreiRN a scris:


Batrinul a scris:


Eu sint plecat de mai mult timp din TARA si am uitat limba romina si uite asa vam tradus dupa stiinta ...     Am inteles ca in lupta contra varoa nu avem nevoie decit de un PIEPTENE

   
Da, dar nu ai vrut sa spui ca la fagure i se zice "honeycomb" si de acolo ai tradus tu doar "comb" adica PIEPTENE.

Oricum un studiu ff interesant.
Varroa se dezvolta bine in celulele mari.
In ultimi 20 de ani sa trecut la baza de ceara cu celule mari pt a scoate albine mai mari. Asta a usurat inmultirea la varroa.
Michael Bush, a testat ideea ca daca albine isi face singura fagurele la ce marime isi doreste varroa nu prospera. Cand pune faguri la cladit pune doar 3 cm sus pe rama pt inceput si rama o pune intre 2 rame deja cladite pt a primi o directie cat mai perfecta.
Si, da, varroa prefera fagure vechi si schimbarea lui la 3 ani reduce sansa de infestare.

In cazul asta e recomandat sa folosim faguri claditi in totalitate de albne. Ce nu corespunde din fagure, taiat la ceara, pana cladesc ce vrem noi.

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Miere multa si inima curata
pus acum 15 ani
   
szlörinc
Apicultor

Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 144
Va salut!
Rezumat textul engleza discuta de capcana paduchilor.Se foloseste rama claditoara care se pune ca penultima rama incuibul,dupa ce costrueste rama si matca umpla cu ,oua puetul de trantor dupa ce capaceste se taie de stupar,ce poate repeta lunar aceasta operatie.Un alt procedeu este cu zahar pudra care deja am vazut in video.
Parerea mea,prin aceste tratamente se poate micsora inmultirea paduchilor,dar nu poate elimina,desfiinta cu desavarsire,cu nici unfel de tratamente.Aceasta procedura este indicat la cei cu efectivul de 20 de familii.Cine are peste 100 de familii nu are vreme de asaceva.Daca nu reuseste sa le scote puietul de trantor mai rau face,ca inmulteste paduchile cu trantorii.
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
De o saptamana si ceva am funduri cu plasa la stupi pt a scapa de varroa care pica pe jos. Problema este ca gasesc boabe de polen in cutia de carton pusa sub plasa. Albinele nu iau boabele inapoi? Nu sunt multe dar ..... sunt.

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
La unul din stupi am pus o cutie de carton dedesubt si acuma am inspectat-o cu ochelari.
4 varroa am gasit.
2 nu mai miscau si doua erau vi.
O sa inspectez zilnic.
Sper.

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
Varroa Treatment
Numerous types of treatment Have been tried in many countries of the world. These treatments fall into several categories which are listed below. The aim is to reduce the varroa population to a minimum by the time that brood rearing stops and the bees are ready for winter. Additional treatments may be needed in spring before supers are required. There is a risk of drone infertility if spring treatments are required.

'Hard' Chemicals
Usually these are veterinary medicines... With defined treatment instructions. It is wise to follow these instructions as resistance to the particular chemicals may be speeded up by using the wrong dose or honey may be contaminated if the advised timing is altered.

Bayvarol was the first example to be licenced in UK with Apistan being the second. The rest of this list is either not licenced in UK, but is a licenced treatment in some other countries or has certification that has lapsed. Taktivar and Gabon  PA 92 are licenced and used in the Czech Republic. Cekafix is licenced in Germany. The licence for Folbex VA has lapsed (it is not recommended as wax residues build up quickly). Pherovar is still under development as of Feb 2001.

'Soft' Chemicals
This category contains Formic Acid, Oxalic Acid and Lactic Acid as well as various Essential Oils. Thymol Crystals and ApiGuard also fall into this category. Although the acids are a 'soft' treatment, they are extremely corrosive and need care and protective clothing when used.

'Physical' or Bio technical Methods

Powders
Flowers of sulphur has been suggested as it is both a fine powder and has been effective against acarine mites. It can be puffed onto the bees or dribbled on to seams of bees between frames.


Icing sugar
(also known as 'powdered sugar') can be dribbled onto the seams of bees... There has been some suggestion that this can damage the early stages of larvae, but I will find out more and update later.


There may be some mileage in mixing flowers of sulphur and icing sugar, but test need to be conducted.


Removal of Nucleus
By forming a nucleus early in the season, with zero brood, all the mites will be on the adult bees and vulnerable to fumigation or aerosol treatment methods. The nuc can be developed to become next season's production colony. The Taranov Swarm Method would be ideal for this purpose.


Queen/brood isolation
Various frame traps made of queen excluder material are produced by the appliance trade.
In a normal hive, Varroa infested brood is split between 60% drone and 40% worker brood.
By caging the queen on an empty drawn comb in a cage made of queen excluder material the mites can be 'drawn' to this frame as, after eight days, it will be the only one with open brood. After nine days this trapped brood is sealed and the frame is 'sacrificed' and another empty drawn comb placed with the queen in the trap. The second comb is sacrificed, again after 9 days, and a third frame is placed in the trap, if this is destroyed as well then we have no brood of any description left as after 24 days all other cells (worker or drone) will have emerged. The idea being that this isolated frame will have a disproportionate number of varroa infesting it and thus the destruction of it will harm the varroa more than the bees. It does disrupt brood development, but if it is timed for the back end of the main honey flow then will not reduce forager numbers and there is still time for a force of 'winter bees' to be raised. (There may even be a benefit in causing this to happen later than usual as the resulting winter bees will be slightly younger and thus have more life in spring.)

There are many variations to this method... one, two or three entrapments or one early in the season and one late. One, two or three combs per trap have been suggested and versions using drone comb or a mixture of drone/worker comb are also mentioned in literature.

This method is time consuming and messy, but it also provides a "brood break". One disadvantage of this technique is the cells vacated by the earliest emerging brood may be clogged with pollen and honey as they are out of reach of a laying queen.


Drone brood 'magnet'
As the mite is preferentially attracted to drone cells they can be used to trap mites and then if the frames are put in a deep freeze for 3 days the mites and brood will be killed. The frames can have the cappings scratched then be exposed to the birds for larvae removal (a hose pipe can also be used and is especially rapid as the remains of the pupae literally pop out of the cells).

This and the previous method can be combined (two twelve day entrapments using drone comb).


Pheramone traps
Stephen Pernal in his work with varroa and odours, is using a simple choice test where mites walk in one of two possible directions towards one of two odours coming from the different arms of a 'Y' shaped tube, He has discovered various bee extracts that attract or repel mites by this method. This may result in a trap that will lure varroa mites to their death.


Foundation cellsize
There is much controversy about this at the moment, but much testing will take place in 2002 and the following years which should give more information. I have other reasons to adopt small cells and if there is some benefit in reduced varroa reproduction in such cells (as is being suggested by some) then I will happily accept it.


'Integrated Pest Management' 'IPM'

Open Mesh floors



The Frakno thymol frame, the Brooks-Knight frame and other thymol crystal evaporating frames can be used in conjunction with frames containing drone foundation.



Icing sugar
Is a fine powder and can be eaten by the bees... As it has no medical effect on adult bees it could be used repeatedly although I am suspicious that it may block spiracles and/or harm developing larvae.


'Non Medicinal Curative Substances'
This peculiar term has arisen in the UK to cover non licenced items in the above lists. Copper Gluconate is being marketed as "Happy Hive Salts" which may or may not be effective for absolute varroa control, but could form part of an IPM strategy. (there are other uses for this material... more later)

Herbal treatments... Powdered coltsfoot has been used. This is a powder and works to cause a lack of grip in the varroa mite's feet just like other powders, but there is said to be some medical effect as well. This requires more research.

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
Cum am mai spus am pus la doi stupi funduri cu plasa si aproape zilnic inspectez cati varroa gasesc pe hartia de sub stupi.
Interesant dar am gasit si o omida de la molia de ceara care a cazut prin plasa.
Azi am separat doi warroa si le-am facut poze.

varroa destructor cum mai spus pus doi stupi funduri plasa aproape zilnic inspectez cati varroa

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
Mai aproape

varroa destructor mai aproape

19.9KB

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
stefan1
Apicultor

Din: Sibiu
Inregistrat: acum 17 ani
Postari: 1334
In postarea cu care am inceput acest topic, la sfarsit, autorul din care am citat spunea ca doar peste 10 paduchi morti natural pe zi, infestarea se considera importanta si stupul trebuie tratat.
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
o sa le tin o oarecare socoteala dar cum termina de construit faguri o sa le dau si cu zahar pudra si sa vad daca pica mai multi.

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
spartacus25
Apicultor

Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 9
Tratament rama claditoare
pus acum 15 ani
   
andrei_salaj
Apicultor

Din: Zalau,Salaj
Inregistrat: acum 16 ani
Postari: 657
credeti ca cu rama claditoare si alde alea terminati paduchii..?

io ma insel....eu doar de 3 ori pe an tratez...varachet si toamna asta o sa pun si mavrrol...nu am avut probleme pana acum cu infestare masiva.

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Telefon:0747823338
ID messenger:  tarba_andy
pus acum 15 ani
   
marcel68
Apicultor

Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 42
Am gasit si eu pe aici mai multe metode de tratare varroa
     -cu sucul obtinut din tulpini de rosii-efect acaricid, se pastreaza in stup o sticluta cu fitil
     -cu fumul de la  o tigara la 10 rame dadant, se afuma bine
     -cu praf de usturoi pulverizat pe rame amestecat cu zahar pudra
     -cu macerat din rubarber si urzica(rub. contine acid oxalic iar urz. are mult acid formic) folosit pe o insula de catre francezi unde cresc matci
      -rusii dau cu faina obtinuta din ace de pin(pinus palaessiana)
      -in palma de m spaniolii au gasit o albina salbatica cu celula mica 4,9 mm, rezistenta la varroa, s-au vindut peste 2000 de matci intr-un an
      - acid formic intr-o sticluta cu fitil , concentratie 85%
       -celula naturala e mai mica si nu se pot depune usor paduchii
Intrebati , cautati si pe urma folositi , eu inca nu am folosit , dar o sa le incerc pe toate oricum eu le-am gasit scrise  ,deci si probate de altii.

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....be water my friend...
pus acum 15 ani
   
bucovineanu
Apicultor

Din: jud Suceava
Inregistrat: acum 16 ani
Postari: 1538
Toate aceste tratamente se incadreaza la  tratamente bio. Pot fi incercate pe un numar mic de familii. Este mare riscul de a incerca pe o stupina intreaga.
      Este doar o parere.

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Ce bine ar fi daca nu am avea expresia "Las'ca merge si asa."
pus acum 15 ani
   
AndreiRN
Apicultor

Din: Los Angeles
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 2417
La intrunirea de club de luna trecuta ni sa prezentat o noua metoda bio importiva la varroa.
Cerculete de bumbac cu care isi curata femeile fatza de machiaj inmuiate in ulei de nuca de cocos si puse deasupra la rame.
Albina este atrasa de uleiul aromat si varroa care atinge uleiul nu mai poate sa se tina de albina.
Varroa are un fel de ventuze in talpi cu care se tine atasata de albina pana si in zbor.
Daca ai si funduri cu plasa e si mai eficient deoarece ........ pica din stupi.

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320 de zile senine fac albinele fericite
pus acum 15 ani
   
Corina Gherman
Apicultor

Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 8
Am solutia pt. dvs. Se numeste APIGUARD. Produs inregistat acum si in ROMANIA!!!

Albine sănătoase pe cale naturală
Apiguard, un tratament pe bază de timol VITA(Europe) Limited (UK) a conceput, dezvoltat şi brevetat un tratament pe bază de timol, numit Apiguard.
Timolul este un compus natural care se găseşte în cimbru şi în anumite tipuri de miere, cum ar fi cea de tei. Eficacitatea timolului în combaterea acarianului varroa este deja bine cunoscută, cum de altfel este bine cunoscută şi influenţa sa pozitivă asupra sănătăţii şi igienei coloniei. Dezvoltarea gelului Apiguard a optimizat ifuzarea şi acţiunea timolului, făcând din acesta un tratament eficace.Apiguard, un gel cu eliberare lentă, controlată Apiguard este un gel cu eliberare lentă, special conceput şi brevetat, care conţine timol. Gelul acţionează ca un burete a cărui ochiuri se  icşorează sau se măresc în funcţie de variaţiile de temperatură. Când temperatura creşte, volatilitatea timolului creşte şi ea însă ochiurile buretelui se micşorează; eliberarea timolului este astfel în permanenţă controlată. Apiguard, acţiune dublă
Apiguard are două moduri complementare de acţiune. În primul rând, vaporii de timol se împrăştie în colonie ca urmare a ventilării asigurate de aripile albinelor şi atacă acarienii varroa prin inhalaţie. În al doilea rând, albinele lucrătoare transportă şi difuzează gelul în colonie atunci când comunică fizic unele cu celelalte; în
acest caz Apiguard distruge acarienii varroa prin contact.
Inhalaţie: albinele ventilează Contact: contact social între albine

Albinele suferă frecvent de diferite probleme, cum ar fi boli, diverşi paraziţi şi efectele stropirii culturilor cu pesticide. În ciuda tratamentelor regulate, acarianul Varroa destructor rămâne inamicul lor nr. 1. Recent, acest acarian a dezvoltat suşe rezistente la anumite ingrediente active anterior eficace. Pentru a rezolva această situaţie îngrijorătoare este necesară o nouă abordare: Apiguard este un tratament nou pe bază de ingrediente naturale care sunt eficace, benefice şi nu prezintă riscuri pentru coloniile de albine melifere. Este cea mai bună armă în lupta împotriva suşelor rezistente de acarieni. Apiguard constituie un partener alternant
natural pentru Apistan®.
Eficacitatea Apiguard-ului a fost dovedită de numeroase teste Rezultatele testelor efectuate la nivel mondial arată o eficacitate tipică de 90 - 93%. Multe autorităţi internaţionale au realizat teste clinice de succes. Teste practice au fost efectuate de numeroşi apicultori din diferite regiuni şi zone climatice, în ţări din cele mai diverse cum ar fi Mexic şi Finlanda. Concluziile lor au confirmat pe de o parte eficacitatea produsului, contribuind, pe de altă parte, la adaptarea şi stabilirea condiţiilor
de folosire a tratamentului. Apiguard, un produs sigur sub raport alimentar
Timolul este deja prezent în multe alimente. Nu se înregistrează nici o modificare a gustului mierii provenite din stupi trataţi cu Apiguard în afara perioadelor de cules.
Apiguard, sănătate şi igienă pentru albine Timolul are un rol pozitiv asupra igienei din stup. El acţionează ca acaricid, bactericid şi fungicid, încurajând curăţenia în stup. În consecinţă, prin menţinerea sănătăţii coloniei, Apiguard contribuie la prevenirea a numeroase probleme şi boli. Apiguard a primit autorizaţie de comercializare de la autorităţile veterinare relevante din ţările europene şi din alte ţări ale lumii. Acest lucru oferă atât consumatorilor cât şi apicultorilor garanţiile şi securitatea asociate unui produs medicinal autorizat.
Acaricid: acţiune unică Apiguard: acţiune multiplă Varroa destructor
Apiguard, pentru combaterea suşelor rezistente Răspândirea suşelor de varroa rezistente la acaricide a devenit o problemă serioasă pentru apicultori.
Dezvoltarea unor suşe rezistente de varroa ca urmare a folosirii Apiguard-ului este însă puţin probabilă. Timolul inhibează procesele biologice ale acarianului, având o acţiune multiplă asupra membranelor celulare şi sistemului nervos, spre deosebire de acaricide, care afectează numai o anumită porţiune a sistemului nervos. Din acest motiv, apariţia rezistenţei la timol este mult mai puţin probabilă. Un tratament eficace şi sigur pentru combaterea varozei
Produs permis în agricultura ecologică conform Regulamentului CEE nr. 2092/91 modificat pe 24 iunie 1991.

Prezentare Apiguard
Cum se foloseşte? Când se foloseşte?
1. Desfaceţi tăviţa cu Apiguard.
2. Puneţi tăviţa în partea de sus a ramelor
cu puiet.
Sfaturi şi observaţii practice
3. Înlocuiţi tăviţa după două săptămâni. Vara, cât mai curând după recoltare, când
temperatura medie din timpul zilei depăşeşte +15°C. Vremea mai caldă face albinele mai active, acestea difuzând Apiguard-ul în colonie. Dacă coloniile necesită hrană, începeţi tratamentul cu câteva zile mai repede pentru ca albinele să aibă timp prima dată să difuzeze Apiguard-ul.®
4. Tratamentul durează circa 4 - 6 săptămâni.
Tăviţă de 50 g.
O cutie cu 10 tăviţe poate trata 5 colonii.


Apiguard este o marcă comercială a VITA (Europe) Limited - UK.
Produs pentru Vita de Laleham Healthcare Ltd - Hampshire - UK.
Compoziţie: timol 12,5 g. Excipient q.s.p.: 1 tăviţă de 50 g.

Indicaţii: tratamentul varozei cauzate de Varroa destructor (Anderson & Trueman).
A se citi instrucţiunile înainte de utilizare.
Contraindicaţii: necunoscute.
Efecte secundare nedorite: o uşoară agitaţie în colonie în primele zile după
începerea tratamentului.
Apiguard este un produs veterinar.
Perioada de decontaminare a mierii: 0 zile.
• Verificaţi ca albinele lucrătoare să aibă acces la tăviţă. În unii stupi trebuie asigurat un spaţiu deasupra tăviţei cu ajutorul
unui cat, a unui capac de stup răsturnat sau hrănitor, sau cu ajutorul unui magazin gol.
• Lăsaţi tăviţele în stup până când gelul dispare în întregime.
• Controlaţi colonia pentru a observa eventualele modificări; uneori este necesar un tratament în afara sezonului.
• După începerea tratamentului, colonia poate fi uneori afectată de o agitaţie temporară, care este inofensivă.
• Pe durata tratamentului, mirosul caracteristic de timol este uneori perceptibil.

Valabilitate: 36 luni
Pret lista 9.43 lei/tavita + TVA. Se aplica discount in functie de cantitati

Pentru informaţii suplimentare, contactaţi:
SC SERVICII PUBLICE SA
Corina Gherman
400191 Cluj-Napoca
P-ţa Timotei Cipariu nr. 9
Tel: 0264 418 676, 418 677
Fax: 0264 413 777
e-mail:
APG-09-ROM
pus acum 15 ani
   
filip
Apicultor

Din: Aninoasa.Hd.Stupii in jud Arad
Inregistrat: acum 17 ani
Postari: 1832
Corina,o fotografie,ceva filmulet de prezentare?

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pus acum 15 ani
   
Corina Gherman
Apicultor

Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 8
Am fotografii in fisa de prezentare a produsului. Nu stiu sa atasez pe acest forum, asa ca am sa-l trimit pe mail apiardeal, ok?
Mai multe informatii gasiti pe apiguard.com
pus acum 15 ani
   
filip
Apicultor

Din: Aninoasa.Hd.Stupii in jud Arad
Inregistrat: acum 17 ani
Postari: 1832
Astea sunt pozele produsului?

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pus acum 15 ani
   
filip
Apicultor

Din: Aninoasa.Hd.Stupii in jud Arad
Inregistrat: acum 17 ani
Postari: 1832
Apistan am folosit si am fost foarte multumit de el.
"Apiguard constituie un partener alternant
natural pentru Apistan®."

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pus acum 15 ani
   
bucovineanu
Apicultor

Din: jud Suceava
Inregistrat: acum 16 ani
Postari: 1538
Daca am inteles bine tratamentul unei familii costa cel putin 23 lei?

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Ce bine ar fi daca nu am avea expresia "Las'ca merge si asa."
pus acum 15 ani
   
filip
Apicultor

Din: Aninoasa.Hd.Stupii in jud Arad
Inregistrat: acum 17 ani
Postari: 1832

bucovineanu a scris:

Daca am inteles bine tratamentul unei familii costa cel putin 23 lei?

O cutie cu 10 tăviţe poate trata 5 colonii
Pret lista 9.43 lei/tavita + TVA. Se aplica discount in functie de cantitati
Ca idee e mai ieftin decat Mavrirolul,poti trata 10 roi ori 5 fam.

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pus acum 15 ani
   
ben90557
Apicultor

Din: Barlad
Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 16
9,43+tvax10 tavite=1cutie=112,2 lei=5 stupi.Cat este un mavrirol? Tot pentru 5 stupi.
pus acum 15 ani
   
filip
Apicultor

Din: Aninoasa.Hd.Stupii in jud Arad
Inregistrat: acum 17 ani
Postari: 1832

ben90557 a scris:

9,43+tvax10 tavite=1cutie=112,2 lei=5 stupi.Cat este un mavrirol? Tot pentru 5 stupi.

20 lei cutia de MAVRIROL

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pus acum 15 ani
   
bucovineanu
Apicultor

Din: jud Suceava
Inregistrat: acum 16 ani
Postari: 1538
Din expunere rezulta ca o tavita nu o cutie, costa 11,25 lei. Pentru a trata o familie sunt necesare cel putin 2 tavite. Asa se vede de la mine. Vedeti altfel?

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Ce bine ar fi daca nu am avea expresia "Las'ca merge si asa."
pus acum 15 ani
   
fullfit46
Vizitator
orbanstefan64 _)_

Modificat de fullfit46 (acum 14 ani)
pus acum 15 ani
   
janese
Apicultor

Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 190
ma..pungasule...fulfit..acu in faza asta ma intereseaza cum se comporta medicamentul..in cat timp se consuma...cum reactioneaza albinele...cum miroase in cutie..ca tratamentul cu varachet va fi baza..dar asa e cand ma mananca undeva sa incerc..sa vad...sa am ce zice daca nu e in regula ceva...vasluieneeee!!!  

pus acum 15 ani
   
fullfit46
Vizitator
orbanstefan64 _)_

Modificat de fullfit46 (acum 14 ani)
pus acum 15 ani
   
teinegru64
Apicultor

Inregistrat: acum 16 ani
Postari: 421

janese a scris:

ma..pungasule...fulfit..acu in faza asta ma intereseaza cum se comporta medicamentul..in cat timp se consuma...cum reactioneaza albinele...cum miroase in cutie..ca tratamentul cu varachet va fi baza..dar asa e cand ma mananca undeva sa incerc..sa vad...sa am ce zice daca nu e in regula ceva...vasluieneeee!!!  


Ai ce ai cu mirosul din cutii ...........eu stiu ca glumesti.....dar mai sunt si incepatori.Apropo cineva a aruncat fitilile de la mavrirol in focul de la gratar.....unul cu bolta .....A tusit o zi intreaga de credeam ca da ortu popii.

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pus acum 15 ani
   
janese
Apicultor

Inregistrat: acum 15 ani
Postari: 190

teinegru64 a scris:


janese a scris:

ma..pungasule...fulfit..acu in faza asta ma intereseaza cum se comporta medicamentul..in cat timp se consuma...cum reactioneaza albinele...cum miroase in cutie..ca tratamentul cu varachet va fi baza..dar asa e cand ma mananca undeva sa incerc..sa vad...sa am ce zice daca nu e in regula ceva...vasluieneeee!!!  


Ai ce ai cu mirosul din cutii ...........eu stiu ca glumesti.....dar mai sunt si incepatori.Apropo cineva a aruncat fitilile de la mavrirol in focul de la gratar.....unul cu bolta .....A tusit o zi intreaga de credeam ca da ortu popii.

teiule..te-ai albit!!! eu am vorbit serios, sunt aspecte  legate de comportamentul coloniei de albine!..lucruri care ma intereseaza pe mine!!
medicamentul asta pe baza de timol,nu face un tratament shoc!..si atunci ma gandesc sa-l tzin doua trei luni in 3-5 familii sa vedem ce se intampla!!
ce ai cu mine?..am si eu pasarelele mele!
incepatorii,care au ca tzel(ca sa nu zic target) marirea numarului de colonii in stupina lor..ii sfatuiesc sa nu faca experientze..adica sa nu-si asume nici un risc,doi ,trei ani apoi ..sa faca ce experietze si ce teste vor ei!!
apicultorii incepatori sa nu uite ca stupinele si-au marit efectivul dupa metoda veche,..cu impachetare..cu turte..metoda verificata in zeci de ani..si care metoda a trecut stupine,colonii de albine peste zeci de ierni!!
noutatzile ,tehnicile aparute dupa ce am avut acces la informatzii si au venit tinerii cu mintea destupata(vorba unui preten de-al meu...sa traiesti pupe!),sa le apice oricine isi asuma un risc!!

INCEPATORUL NU ARE NEVOIE DE RISCURI IN PERIOADA DE START IN APICULTURA!!
SA-L AJUTAM SA MEARGA LA SIGUR!!are el timp sa faca si prostii destule!!  

pus acum 15 ani
   
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